Did you check the fuel reset button?

 

I'm thinking with a CEL and sluggish condition.....bad C.O.P. I've experienced plug launch...that doesn't sound like your problem or you would have mentioned machine gun like sounds. When I had this problem, it was a bad C.O.P. Let us know how it works out.

 

Problem solved! Found my code reader and got a 0303 (misfire in cylinder #3). Under further inspection, the plug wire boot was rather loose. I stuffed it back in there and everything seems to be fine. CEL is gone. Never had a plug wire just pop off like that before, but oh well. I'm just glad things are back to normal. Thanks for all your help, guys.

 

How do you know when you have tripped the reset button and the pump is not working, and then how do you know it has been rest for driving.

I just arived home with a new fuel filter and tool, and I'm trying to kick the reset button. I was trying it with the engine running, but I suppose I can try it without the noise.

Help, the sun is shining and I need to get this job done so I can roller blade with my wife.

 

Your best bet is to disconnect the negative cable and relieve the pressure from the schrader valve from the passenger side fuel rail. Once there's no more pressure, then you're OK to change the filter. It's alot simpler than the pump reset stuff!

 

I'm not having much luck with the reset. I just idled the truck for five minutes while taping the reset switch with a screw driver. I'm about ready to take a face full of fuel if I have to. I'll take a look for that schrader valve, and look up the fuse in the book.

 

From Haynes Repair Manual

Fuel pressure gauge bleeding method:

1. Locate the fuel pressure test port on the fuel rail and install the fuel pressure gauge on to the Schrader valve.

2. Direct the bleed-off hose into a metal cup or suitable container for gasoline storage.

3. Turn the valve and allow the excess fuel to bleed into the container.

4. Close the valve, remove the fuel pressure gauge and cap the test port.

Inertia switch method:

1. The fuel pump switch, sometimes called the “inertia switch”, which shuts off fuel to the engine in the event of a collision, affords a simple and convenient means by which fuel pressure can be relieved before servicing fuel injection components (i.e. fuel filter). The switch is located behind the passenger’s side kick panel.

2. Unplug the inertia switch electrical connector.

3. Start the engine and allow it to run until it stops. This should take only a few seconds.

4. The fuel system pressure is now relieved. When you’re finished working on the fuel system, simply plug the electrical connector back into the switch. If the inertia switch was “popped” (activated) during this procedure, push the reset button on the top of the switch.

EDIT: You will know if the switch is NOT reset because your truck will not start.

 

Ok, gentleman and ladies, I have a question.

I had my fuel filter replaced by the dealer the first time. That was because when they undercoated my truck they got a bit carried away and undercoated some of the fuel filer and fittings so I did not want to chance on breaking anything. I let them do it, so if they broke anything, due to their lack of attention while undercoating they would pay for any needed parts.

With that said, I plan on doing my own fuel filter changes from now on. What brand filters do you recommend? Should I only get it from the dealer? Or is there as good or better brands I can buy like from Auto Zone?

Thanks for the information.

 

o1 XLT Sport,

thanks for posting that info. I did get my fuel filter changed by pulling the fuse out. Next time I will pull the electrical connector though. This was an easy job, and well worth the time. Good idea to wear some gogles. I didn't get any gas on me, but there is still quite a bit in the filter and lines that comes out.

 

I'm beginning to think my truck is weird. I've changed my filter 3 times, and this was the sequence of events each time:

1. Insert cheap plastic fuel line disconnect tool into end of fuel line and push.

2. Catch small amount of gas that dribbles out with rag. Prop line up on frame to stop dripping.

3. Insert cheap plastic fuel line disconnect tool into the other end of fuel line and push.

4. Catch small amount of gas that dribbles out with rag. Prop line up on frame to stop dripping.

5. Pry filter from metal clip and put caps from new filter over the fuel filter inlets and place in plastic pan to catch gas.

5. Insert new fuel filter into metal clip. Re-connect fuel lines.

6. Put key in ignition, turn to "Run". Check for fuel leaks. Start truck, and check it for leaks again.

I've never relieved the pressure, pulled fuses, tripped inertia switches, etc. I do let the truck set for 30 minutes or so before I do the change and I've never experienced any pressurized gas discharge, only the typical dripping you would expect when doing this task.

As for filters, I've been buying the Motorcraft units at my dealer for about $12 each.

01 XLT Sport - My truck had a ridiculous amount of undercoating on it too. If you wish to remain halfway clean when doing this job, raise the side of the truck enough to let you slide in and out without having to touch the underbody. Also, spray a rag with WD-40 and use it to wipe the lines and fuel filter bracket before you have to touch them.

Just my $.02...

 

B-Man,

You are brilliant. so that is what those plastic end caps are for, to keep the gas in the filter while you remove it.

I also wonder about the hose ends. If you remove the fuel line disconnect tool does will the end of the line close and stop fuel from draining out of the line? I seemed to notice that the line came off better if you pulled the hose rather than push on the tool. I have no concept of what is going on with that too, just happy that it makes the job much quicker and easier.


The other thing I noticed is the increase in hp. I filled the tank right away so I could check my mpg change with the new filter. I sqweeked the tires comeing out of the gas station because I gave it too much petal crossing heavy traffic. Looks like the stout 5.4 acceleration is back.

 

Anytime you have a CEL flashing it means that you have a cylinder misfire. It could be a number of things, but I would check #4 spark plug and look for moisture.

 

Ok, I just did mine and wanted to put my 2 cents in.
1. spend the extra money and get the metal tool, i would have broken the plastic one
2. it was a pain in the a$$!!!! - now i know why they aren't changed very often
3. to relieve the pressure, I used a narrow flat head screwdriver to pop the red fuel reset button up, attempted to start the engine and let it die, then disconnected the negative battery cable, i assumed it worked because i didn't get sprayed!
4. getting the filter out of the holder was hard as hell, when in doubt, use a hammer!, that popped it out real good --yea i knew to be careful with sparks and all, it wasn't as violent as it sounded
-anyway, just putting my 2, maybe 1 cent in, i think i'll let the stealership do it next time!

oh, and have a large rag handy to catch the dripping fuel, my new motorcraft filter didn't come with endcaps to put on

 

I'm wondering if anyone loosened their gas cap to vent the gas tank pressure before loosening the filter connectors? I know it's lessened the dribble for me on other vehicles.

 

another .02 (and probably not even worth that)

Before I changed mine I asked one of the mechanics at a dealership what they did to relieve the fuel pressure. He just smiled and said, "We turn our heads when we disconnect it."

So I did the same and had the same results as B-man, just a little fuel spilling out.

cbone